Nyingchi Gongbu Area Tibetan Costumes

Gongbu Tibetan costumes (工布藏族服饰) of Nyingchi (林芝), Tibet, are deeply influenced by the region’s unique environmental conditions, making them distinct from the traditional attire of other Tibetan regions. These costumes have evolved from simple, practical designs to more elaborate and elegant forms, closely tied to the pastoral, hunting, and forestry traditions of the Gongbu Tibetan ancestors. The costumes of the Gongbu Tibetans are typically divided into three categories: festive attire, everyday wear, and work clothes for specific labor tasks. While the designs of these costumes remain simple and functional, they are also ornate and visually striking. Over time, as living standards improved, the quality of materials, craftsmanship, and decorative elements of Gongbu Tibetan clothing have been further refined, while maintaining their traditional style.

Key Features of Gongbu Tibetan Costumes

The Gongbu Tibetan costumes form a unique clothing system that is shaped by the high mountain and canyon climate, as well as the forest and hunting lifestyle of the region. The core garment is the “Guoxiu” (果秀), also known as the “Guxiu” (古休) or “Guxiu” (谷休), a sleeveless pullover long vest made from wool, fur, and other materials. In winter, the costume uses fur or synthetic fleece for warmth, while in summer, it is made from breathable felt (氆氇) for comfort.

Primary Materials: Wool, fur, and silk

Main Garment Style: Sleeveless, long, and rectangular with a simple cut

Decorative Features: Modern versions feature fabric or satin borders at the cuffs, hems, and collars for added elegance

Weather Adaptability: The clothing is designed to be functional for both sunny and rainy weather, with the inner wool providing warmth and the outer wool offering rain protection

In 2008, Gongbu Tibetan costumes were listed as a national intangible cultural heritage, acknowledging their cultural significance.

Structural Characteristics and Gender Differences

General Structure

The Gongbu Tibetan costumes are primarily designed with a black color base, made from long rectangular pieces of wool or fur. These garments are typically sleeveless and collarless, with the hem split into two pieces that extend down to the knee.

Work Clothing (“Legui” 勒规): This short design allows for freedom of movement when working in the forest, such as gathering wood or hunting.

Gender Differences: There are clear distinctions in style between male and female garments:

• Men’s Garments: Formal wear includes “Zuigui” (赘规), a silk and satin outfit with gold thread edging. Warrior costumes, such as the “Zagui” (扎规), are influenced by Mongolian attire from the Yuan Dynasty, featuring a red tassel hat.

• Women’s Garments: Women’s outer garments are long vests without buttons on the sides, secured with a red and black felt belt. They do not wear the traditional “Bangdian” (邦典) apron.

Historical Development of Gongbu Tibetan Costumes

The development of Gongbu Tibetan costumes is closely linked to the region’s historical evolution. Textile techniques introduced during the Tibetan period of the Tang Dynasty (唐朝吐蕃时期) significantly improved the quality of fabrics. The introduction of silk trade in the 7th century further enhanced the decorative craftsmanship. During the Yuan Dynasty, warrior costumes, known as “Zagui” (扎规), integrated Mongolian elements, including the red tassel hat, influenced by the Yuan Dynasty’s influence.

Post-Liberation Changes:

• 1950s: Cotton and synthetic fabrics gradually replaced traditional wool felt.

• 21st Century: The introduction of pure wool and blended fabrics for winter wear.

• 2022: The traditional border stitching technique remains in use, with full ethnic attire still worn for festive occasions.

Functionality and Suitable Scenarios

The Gongbu Tibetan costumes are designed to meet the needs of the local environment, particularly the high-altitude, rainy climate of the region (elevation 2,800–3,700 meters). The costumes are highly functional for various activities:

Rain Protection: The woolen and fur fabric ensures the garment is both waterproof and warm.

Durability: These garments are more resistant to wear and tear compared to regular fabrics, especially in labor-intensive scenarios such as carrying firewood or transporting goods.

Flexibility: The underarm area of the costumes is specially tailored to allow for greater movement, making them suitable for activities like logging and hunting.

Winter Wear: The inner wool layer provides warmth, allowing the wearer to endure temperatures as low as -10°C.

Cultural Significance and Gender Markers

Distinct gender differences are evident in the attire of Gongbu Tibetans, particularly in the accessories and clothing styles.

Hair Accessories:

• Married women wear a topknot and a round “Jiaxia” (加霞) hat.

• Unmarried women braid colorful silk threads, known as “Zaxiu” (扎休), and wear a “Jinhua” (金花) hat.

Belts:

• Men wear simple woven belts.

• Women accessorize their belts with metal embellishments or beaded shell belts.

Age Identification:

• Elderly individuals over 80 years old wear white felt robes to show respect and honor.

Craftsmanship and Techniques

Gongbu Tibetan costumes are made using traditional handwoven and hand-dyed wool, and the crafting process involves 13 steps:

Wool Spinning: Wool is hand-spun from highland sheep.

Dyeing: Traditional plant dyes are used to create black and purple tones.

Cutting: The fabric is cut in a straight line to minimize waste and ensure symmetry.

Bordering: In modern versions, woven satin borders are used to enhance the look and increase production efficiency.

Sewing: Special stitching techniques are employed to ensure the longevity of the garment.

Cultural Heritage

The Gongbu Tibetan costumes were included in the Tibetan Autonomous Region’s (西藏自治区) intangible cultural heritage list in 2007 and were later upgraded to national-level recognition in 2008. In 2025, they were showcased as a cultural symbol of Nyingchi (林芝) at the intangible cultural heritage exhibitions in Hong Kong and Macau. Today, the tradition is still preserved by artisans in Danliang Township, Milin County (米林县丹娘乡), where the complete manual crafting techniques are maintained.