The History of Mount Everest Climbing

Mount Everest, known as Sagarmatha in Nepali and Chomolungma in Tibetan, is the highest peak on Earth, standing at 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 feet) above sea level. Located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and Tibet (China), Mount Everest has long been a symbol of the ultimate physical and mental challenge for mountaineers. The mountain’s history of exploration and climbing is filled with tales of courage, tragedy, and perseverance, as adventurers from around the world have attempted to summit this legendary peak. This history spans centuries of fascination with Everest, starting with early expeditions in the 19th century and continuing to modern-day climbs.

1. Early Expeditions and Discovery

The Search for the Highest Peak

The quest to reach the summit of Everest began in earnest in the mid-19th century, spurred by Western explorers’ curiosity about the tallest mountain in the world. In 1852, Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of India, officially identified the peak as the world’s highest and named it Peak XV. The mountain was later renamed Mount Everest in 1865, in honor of Sir George Everest, a British geographer who had overseen the Great Trigonometric Survey of India.

The First Explorations

The earliest expeditions to Mount Everest were attempts to survey and map the mountain. However, due to its inaccessibility and harsh conditions, actual attempts to climb the peak were not made until the early 20th century.

• 1904: The first attempted exploration of Everest was led by Lieutenant Colonel Sir Francis Younghusband. Although Younghusband’s expedition did not aim to summit, it provided valuable information about the mountain’s geography and approach routes.
• 1920s: The British began more serious efforts to summit Everest, with several reconnaissance expeditions conducted in the 1920s. These early attempts were unsuccessful, but they revealed the challenge of the mountain’s daunting geography and weather conditions.

2. The First Successful Attempt: 1953 British Expedition

The Landmark British Expedition

The breakthrough in the history of Everest climbing came in 1953, when a British expedition led by John Hunt successfully reached the summit. This expedition would go down in history as one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering.

• Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary: The most famous ascent of Everest occurred on May 29, 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa of Nepal, reached the summit. Their successful climb marked the first time humans had reached the top of the world, and it remains one of the most iconic moments in the history of exploration.

• Tenzing Norgay: Norgay, born in Nepal, was a key figure in the history of Everest expeditions. His deep knowledge of the terrain and his experience as a Sherpa guide made him an indispensable member of the team. Norgay’s success was not only a triumph of personal skill but also highlighted the vital role Sherpas play in climbing expeditions in the Himalayas.

• Sir Edmund Hillary: Hillary’s background as a mountaineer from New Zealand made him a perfect choice for the Everest team. His quiet determination, paired with Norgay’s expertise, made for an unstoppable duo, and their achievement in 1953 made them international heroes.

The Importance of the 1953 Expedition

The success of Hillary and Norgay’s summit not only placed Mount Everest firmly in the world’s consciousness but also inspired countless future attempts to reach its peak. The climb demonstrated that with the right combination of skill, preparation, and perseverance, even the most daunting challenges could be overcome.

3. Post-1953 Climbs and the Golden Age of Everest Expeditions

The Quest for Other Routes

After the historic 1953 climb, Everest continued to draw mountaineers from around the world. The period from the 1950s to the 1970s is often referred to as the “Golden Age” of Everest climbing, as numerous expeditions took place, many of them focused on trying different routes to the summit.

• 1960s: In 1963, an American expedition led by James Whittaker became the first American team to reach the summit of Everest. The team used oxygen during their climb, a practice that would become increasingly common in later expeditions.
• 1978: In the summer of 1978, two Japanese climbers, Yuichiro Miura and Dai Kato, successfully climbed the mountain without the use of supplemental oxygen, which marked a milestone in mountaineering.

The Rise of Women Climbers

The first woman to summit Everest was Junko Tabei from Japan, who reached the summit on May 16, 1975. Tabei’s success helped break gender barriers in mountaineering and inspired a new generation of female climbers to aim for the highest peaks in the world.

4. The Modern Era: Climbing Everest in the 21st Century

Increasing Popularity and Crowds

By the 1990s and early 2000s, Everest climbing became more accessible due to advances in equipment, guide services, and route preparation. The once-mysterious and inaccessible mountain became a goal for climbers from all over the world, not just seasoned mountaineers.

• Commercial Expeditions: The rise of commercial expeditions brought both positive and negative aspects to Everest climbing. On the one hand, the availability of experienced guides and Sherpas made it possible for climbers with less technical experience to attempt the summit. On the other hand, this led to overcrowding, especially in the spring climbing season, which has led to safety concerns and environmental challenges on the mountain.

• Peak Season and Crowding: By the 2000s, the annual spring climbing season (March to May) saw increasing numbers of climbers attempting to summit during the short window of good weather. In some years, the number of permits issued to foreign climbers exceeded 600, contributing to congestion on the mountain’s routes, particularly near the summit.

Record-Breaking Climbs

Over the last few decades, numerous climbers have broken records on Everest, including:

• Fast Ascents: The fastest known ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen was achieved by Kilian Jornet of Spain in 2016, who reached the summit in 26 hours.
• Most Summits: The record for the most summits of Everest is held by Kami Rita Sherpa, who successfully summited the mountain 28 times as of 2023.

The Role of Sherpas

The role of Sherpas has become increasingly recognized as essential to Everest climbing. These local climbers, many of whom have summited Everest multiple times, provide crucial assistance to foreign climbers, guiding them up the mountain, setting ropes, and ensuring their safety. Sherpas are often the unsung heroes of these expeditions, facing perilous conditions to ensure the success of others.

Challenges and Environmental Concerns

While Everest continues to be a popular destination for climbers, the growing number of expeditions has led to environmental concerns. The accumulation of waste, including human waste, gear, and trash, has posed a significant challenge to preserving the mountain’s pristine environment. In response, the Nepali government has implemented measures to encourage climbers to bring down trash and reduce their environmental footprint.

5. The Tragic Side of Everest Climbing

High Fatality Rates

Despite the numerous successes, climbing Mount Everest remains incredibly dangerous. Many climbers lose their lives attempting to summit or descend, often due to altitude sickness, extreme weather conditions, exhaustion, and accidents. The death zone above 8,000 meters, where oxygen levels are extremely low, poses a significant challenge to human endurance and survival.

• Famous Fatalities: Notable tragic incidents include the 1996 Everest disaster, where a storm claimed the lives of several climbers, including Rob Hall, a well-known New Zealand mountaineer and guide. This disaster was famously documented in the book and film adaptation Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer.

The Ethical Debate

The growing number of fatalities on Everest has led to ethical debates about the commercialization of the climb. Some critics argue that the practice of guiding less-experienced climbers up the mountain has contributed to dangerous conditions, overcrowding, and fatalities. Others assert that climbing Everest remains a personal choice and that climbers should be held responsible for their own actions.

The history of climbing Mount Everest is a story of human ambition, courage, and determination. From the early surveys in the 19th century to the first successful ascent in 1953, Everest has captivated adventurers, climbers, and dreamers around the world. As the highest point on Earth, Everest represents the ultimate challenge for mountaineers, and its legacy continues to inspire both awe and reverence. While modern expeditions have made the mountain more accessible, the dangers and ethical concerns surrounding Everest climbing remain, making it a complex and multifaceted adventure for those who seek to conquer the world’s tallest peak.